Do I Have to Fix This to Sell My Home?

Almost every property has something that needs attention. A roof that's aging. A deck that's weathered. Mould in a bathroom. Worn flooring. A dated kitchen.

The question sellers ask me most is: "Do I have to fix this?"

The answer depends on three things: Is it a legal requirement? Will a buyer's inspection flag it as a dealbreaker? And if you don't fix it, can you recover the cost in negotiation or a lower sale price?

Let me give you a framework for thinking through every repair decision.

The three tiers of repairs

Tier 1: Non-negotiable (you must fix)

These are repairs that affect safety or legal saleability. Buyers' inspectors will flag them. Banks will require them fixed before settlement. You have to address them:

• Active pest damage (termites/white ants). If an inspection identifies active pest infestation, this is typically a settlement stopper. The lender won't settle. Fix it.
• Major structural issues. Subsidence, foundation cracks, or structural damage. These are major. If identified, they usually result in the sale falling through unless substantially discounted.
• Dangerous electrical or plumbing. A faulty electrical board, exposed wiring, or sewage issues are safety hazards. These typically need to be addressed.
• Significant water damage or rot. Extensive timber rot, water intrusion causing structural damage — these are serious. They're often discovered during inspections and can kill a sale.
• Missing or severely damaged roof. A roof missing sections or leaking significantly is a major issue. Buyers and their lenders will require it addressed.

These repairs are expensive, sometimes very expensive. But if you don't address them, you won't sell — or you'll sell at such a discounted price that it's cheaper to just fix them.

Tier 2: Negotiable (fix or discount)

These are things that inspectors will identify and buyers will raise in negotiations. You have a choice: fix them now, or negotiate a discount at settlement.

Examples:

• Aging roof (no active leaks). A roof that's 20+ years old but not actively leaking. A buyer's inspector will flag it as approaching end-of-life. You can either re-roof now (~$8,000–$15,000) or accept a $5,000–$10,000 discount at settlement. Do the math: if a re-roof costs $12,000 and you'd accept a $7,000 discount, it might be smarter to re-roof.
• Weathered deck or pergola. A deck showing age, mold, or instability. You can restore it (costing $3,000–$8,000) or discount the sale price. The buyer may intend to replace it anyway — in which case they often prefer a discount to doing the work.
• Mould (minor/surface level). Surface mould in bathrooms or on external walls. Not dangerous, but visible. You can remediate it ($500–$1,500) or negotiate on price. Again, the buyer may plan their own bathroom refresh anyway.
• Worn or dated flooring. Carpet showing wear, old vinyl, or dated tiles. Buyers often expect to refresh these themselves. A discount is often preferred to your choice of flooring.
• Outdated kitchen or bathroom. If the kitchen or bathroom is genuinely dated (not broken, just old), you can renovate ($15,000–$40,000+) or negotiate a price reduction ($10,000–$20,000). Most buyers under $1.5M prefer to renovate to their own taste, so a discount often makes more sense.
• Minor building defects. Small cracks in plaster, nail pops, minor cosmetic damage. These are cosmetic. A discount of $1,000–$3,000 often resolves them.

For Tier 2 items, the decision comes down to: Is the cost of fixing it less than the discount I'd accept? If yes, fix it. If no, accept the discount.

Tier 3: Not your problem (don't fix)

These are issues that are either cosmetic, already priced into the market, or things buyers expect to make their own choices about:

• Paint colour or condition (if clean). Buyers expect to repaint. Don't spend money here unless the paint is genuinely dingy or in poor condition.
• Garden landscaping or dead plants. Tidy it up, but don't invest in a garden refresh. Buyers have strong opinions about landscaping and usually prefer to do it themselves.
• Soft furnishings, décor, or personal taste items. Your furniture, curtains, wall colors. Declutter and clean, but don't renovate to suit buyer preferences.
• Appliance age (if functional). An old oven that works is fine. A new oven doesn't add value. Don't replace functional appliances.
• Cosmetic wear on fixtures. A door handle that's worn, a tap that's not shiny. These are minor. A handyman day fixes 20 of these for $300–$500 and is fine, but don't overthink it.

The decision framework

When you're unsure about a repair, ask these three questions:

1. "Will a buyer's inspection flag this as a deal-breaker?" If yes, you're in Tier 1 or 2. If no, you're in Tier 3.
2. "If I don't fix it, how much would I need to discount?" Get specific. If a roof repair costs $10,000 but you'd accept an $8,000 discount, fix it. If you'd accept a $12,000 discount, don't.
3. "Is this something the buyer might want to choose/do themselves?" If yes (kitchen, bathroom, garden, flooring) they often prefer a discount. If no (structural, roof, safety), fix it.

"Every dollar you spend fixing something should either prevent a sale falling through, or cost less than the discount you'd otherwise accept. If it does neither, don't spend it."

The most important mindset shift: You're not trying to create a perfect home. You're trying to remove obstacles to a buyer being confident in their decision. Sometimes that's a repair. Sometimes that's a price discount. Sometimes that's both. The goal is to move efficiently to settlement at the best possible price.

Get in touch if you want to walk through your property and talk through which repairs make sense and which you can safely skip.